Why Would My A4 1.8t Back Drivers Side Tire Curve Inwards
- #1
01 Golf.
The front left rotor won't budge, though the caliper is off, and the small screw was broken off by a PO years before.
I've hammered on it from the back; I've sprayed some PB Blaster onto the hub center and into the wheel bolt holes, and even after days of soaking, it won't budge.
What to do?
Bigger hammer?
Why would this be stuck on? See possible terrible reason at the bottom-
History:
The car spent all its life, until 1 year ago, in the salty NE.
In '06, I went to replace pads and disks, and could not get the pass. side rotor off because I could not loosen the small screw. At the time, I did not put antiseize on the driver's side rotor, because I apparently overlooked this part of the instructions.
Now, having resolved to just drill out the small screw on the passenger side, the ancient pass. side rotor came off without difficulty. It seems odd that the more recently changed driver's side rotor would be more rather than less difficult, but perhaps the previous change there was doen with a long-lasting antiseize.
At the time, I had to put the car back together before doing the driver's side, and I only got as far as removing the old snow tire and putting on the now permanent summer tire on the driver's side, to match the passenger side. I apparently didn't tighten the wheels bolts enough, and after a day or two, they were loose enough to cause noise and thumping when not accelerating or braking - I drove 3 or 4 miles at lowish speed before I realized what was going on and tightened them. Is the layering of wheel over disk over hub such that this banging around could have "crimped" the disk onto the hub?
Last edited:
- #4
Never had to do it with a rotor but I have used an oxy-acetelyne torch to remove many rear brake drums and see no reason why it would not work on a rotor. Use a fairly good flame and just keep moving in a circular motion on the rotor around the hub. With the drums you usually hear a pop and you then know that it is loose. It usually does not take all that much heat. No where near red hot.
- #7
If you've got the 288mm VR6/1.8T brakes, you can use the caliper carrier mounting bolts (two bolts that go in from behind) to press a stuck rotor off.
- #11
I found my bigger hammer (just the standard size claw type, few pounds, you'd use for putting large nails in the wall or midsize nails into wood).
After a few unsuccessful outwards hits, the second wide-swing hit inward knocked it loose.
thanks all.
- #14
BFH is more fun then a puller. In my experience even with the 3 jaw puller you may still need the BFH.
- #15
Once you have removed the guide starhead screw, you can loosen the rotor up with a hammer beating (assuming your replacing the rotor). The rotors tend to freeze in place, especially when people don't use anti seize compound when installing new rotors 
. There are simply too many non metal items in there to recommend the use of a torch.
I have broke a couple of heads off of Chineese hammers (the kind that I normally lend to friends who want to borrow a hammer ) beating on a few of these rotors in a vain effort of removal. What works is when you beat on them with a genuine American made hammer . They don't friggin break. Really drives home the difference between a good quality tool and the crap sold at Harbor Freight.
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
- #19
What ever method you use bear in mind that the impact from a hammer will be transfered to the wheel bearing. That's what supports the hub.
Pullers and heat are the prefered method to excessive hits of a hammer in my book...
- #20
one more thing .. clean the hub up real good with a wire brush . make that surface real clean .. Can give you a pulsating brake pedal if you jam something between hub and rotor .. Just FYI Good luck! R
- #21
JETaah said:
What ever method you use bear in mind that the impact from a hammer will be transfered to the wheel bearing. That's what supports the hub.
Pullers and heat are the prefered method to excessive hits of a hammer in my book...
Finally some common sense.
- #22
A Mechanic's Proverb:
"If force doesn't work, use more force."
- #23
First time I was doing ball joints on a 1966 Ford Mustang, using a pickle fork the ball joint did not move. So I asked them at the auto store what to do: bigger hammer, or stronger man to hit it. I used my 8lb sledge and it came off.
Yes a 3 jaw puller applying maximum reasonable force, liberal use of penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my favorite) , and then smack the rotor with the hammer to set up vibrations. This works almost every time.
- #24
JETaah said:
What ever method you use bear in mind that the impact from a hammer will be transfered to the wheel bearing. That's what supports the hub.
Pullers and heat are the prefered method to excessive hits of a hammer in my book...
Gee, how much force can one transfer with a hammer hit? How much force is applied when that same "hub" is subjected to a pothole?
- #26
Using heat could cause a wheel bearing failure as well. I hammer out, not in which not only lessens the strain it also cannot bend the hub. If I find one super bad I sand the hub a bit with some emery cloth, spray some good penetrating oil (I like the Toyota High performance lube) and wait about 10 minutes. Usually 1 or 2 good whacks loosens it enough. Some rotors use threaded holes for removal. I use them if at all possible first.
Going and buying a puller big enough should be done prior to attempting a job like this. If the puller is not in stock what do you do then?
I never ever use anti seize nor have I ever and I never have a problem removing rotors on any car.
Last edited:
- #27
hevster1 said:
....I never ever use anti seize nor have I ever and I never have a problem removing rotors on any car.
You should try it. Liberal use around the hub makes removal a breeze the next time.
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
- #29
thebigarniedog said:
Gee, how much force can one transfer with a hammer hit? How much force is applied when that same "hub" is subjected to a pothole?
A pot hole can ruin a wheel bearing just as a BFH can...Depending on the pot hole.
A pot hole impact is usually transfered thru an air-filled tire. The hammer is metal to metal and while it may not instantly trash the bearing it could cause tiny fractures on the bearing races where the balls make contact that will be the start point of pitting and failure.
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
- #30
hevster1 said:
Using heat could cause a wheel bearing failure as well. I hammer out, not in which not only lessens the strain it also cannot bend the hub. .....snip....
If you use heat you should be heating the rotor not the hub. You could probably get the rotor way hot enough before enough heat made it thru the hub to the bearing to ruin it. Careful where you point that thing!
Hammer in...hammer out ... it is supported by and pivots on the balls in the bearing... not much contact area between the races and the balls.
You won't bend the hub before you trash the bearing either way in my estimation.
Why Would My A4 1.8t Back Drivers Side Tire Curve Inwards
Source: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads%2Fhelp-front-brake-rotor-stuck-on-hub.235597%2F
0 Response to "Why Would My A4 1.8t Back Drivers Side Tire Curve Inwards"
Mag-post ng isang Komento